Okay, as your coach, I have to tell you, that I’m most likely not looking forward to your mother attacking me with your bed pan while your dumbass lays in a coma. For this reason, I prefer you get the hell off line every time you move, keeping in mind that if the other dude moves well enough you will achieve that end less often than not. Never give up the movement game just because he moves better. Giving him angles means he’s playing checkers while you’re playing chess, and you’re screwed. Always seek the angle, knowing that it is not guaranteed.

The most basic jabbing angle is the fade, in which we take a diagonal step away as we throw a jab, not retreating in line with his straight right, or sidestepping into his hook. As with most retreating jabs, we want to throw it on the high line as it is really an extended guard and pursuit obstruction. I like a three quarter fist or blind jab, not a sneaky or up-jab for this. The turned over or pronated jabs get you more range and some cutting potential from the twist.

Practice the draw step a lot. It is similar to the martial arts cat stance, only we are heading away diagonally and usually going to the balls of the rear foot and pulling the lightly dragging lead foot along flat and, of course, maintaining equidistant space between the feet.

An exception would be if you were just measuring with the glove or the heel of the hand [a foul in the ring] in which case you might want to go flat-footed with the rear foot and coil the lead foot. This way, if he presses against your checking hand, or stays there like a dummy to get hit, you can achieve power by raising your rear heel as your drop your lead heel.

The fade jab is a must for avoiding the right hand and the left hook if your head movement is not there.